Cornouaille – Bretagne (Sept 24)

Being only 150 miles south of Cornwall this place is so incredibly close, yet surprisingly, given how often I travel to France, this is my first time here.

We stayed in the south west region of Brittany, a village called Plogastel-Saint-Germain, in the historic region of Cornouaille (in the Department of Finistère). It is similar to Cornwall in the south west of England in so many ways. Not only do the two places sound the same Cornwall/Cornouaille (or Kernev/Kernow in their native Celt languages), but they share so many other characteristics. 

Silver sands, gin clear waters, rocky coves, stunning landscape, a windswept coastline, quaint fishing villages, lighthouses, prehistoric structures, a common language and similar culture.

Now I already knew how closely connected the Bretons and Cornish are (along with the four other Celtic nations) but on this trip I’ve become even more fascinated with the history and links between these two regions, particularly those surrounding the Arthurian legend and knights of old. Indeed the final resting place of Arthur’s right-hand-man, ‘Merlin’ is supposedly here, along with it being Sir Lancelot’s birthplace. Much more research on that story is needed.
Below is a map of where we stayed for the week, along with the old Breton and Cornish inverted flags. The medieval Breton cross was replaced by the more familiar Gwenn-ha-du, with its nine stripes about 100 years ago.

---

Manoir de Hilguy

Our home for the week was a HPB apartment on the grounds of the Manoir de Hilguy, which was one of HPB’s first foreign investments. More about this place in the hints and tips section at the end.

---

Loctudy and Beaches near Guerveur

We spent the first few days exploring the local area, heading off to explore the nearby coastal village of Loctudy and cycling to the silver sands of Kersaux beach.

The beach cycle between Guerveur and Guilvinec was particularly good, with spectacular views and gorgeous sands. It was warm enough to brave a swim in the clear crystal blue waters – although it was definitely “refreshing” as you may be able to tell from Emma’s expression 😂.

---

Port De Saint-Marine and Bénodet

On a recommendation from others, we visited Saint Marine and took a ferry ride across the estuary to the neighbouring town of Bénodet. Emma was sporting her new Breton striped Sou’wester jacket we bought en-route, only to find she wasn’t alone in wearing this style! Rain was threatened, and it seemed every one else had the same wardrobe idea! The coastal towns are beautiful, reminiscent of Cornwall, and beaches equally gorgeous, although we didn’t brave it today!

---

Alignements of Carnac

I had read about the standing stones that have baffled historians for centuries. Over 3000 of them are dotted around the countryside near Carnac. So we paid a visit to this special site. They appear to have been built over 1000 years before Stonehenge and are spread over a huge area.

The Federal government and local communities appear to be at loggerheads about how best to present them to the public, similar to the wrangling that took place over Stonehenge. For what it’s worth, I like what they have right now, which restricts direct access during the summer months. It’s a magical place, well worth a visit.

---

Concarneau

The medieval town of Concarneau was a gem of a find, and an absolute must see. A literal medieval island siting within a river estuary of a modern coastal town

Upon entering the fortified walls across a narrow bridge, timber framed and stone buildings line the streets. A precarious footpath takes you along the top of the wall, where arrow slits and cannon placement areas remain, providing earlier inhabitants an opportunity to defend the town from raids (from the brave and fearless English😝).

This really is a must see if in the region. The centre is full of restaurants, pubs and clothing shops. There are a couple of squares which host live music, so worth looking up what’s on if paying a visit.

---

Quimper

We paid Quimper a visit on our way back to the apartment, mainly to take a look at the cathedral which makes this place of 60,000 inhabitants a city. It’s quite stunning, surrounded by timber framed wonky buildings dating back many hundreds of years.

We will spend more time here on our next visit.

---

Fest Noz – Saint Coulitz

Following a tip from my good friend, Fabrice, one experience we couldn’t miss was to attend a local “Fest Noz” or “Night Party”. These take place all over the region and are a place where locals come together for traditional Breton music and dance. The one we attended was held in a small country village called Saint Coulitz, about 20 minutes from our apartment. The large barn had been converted for the festivities and had a huge dance floor and stage, where local musicians and singers trot out local songs with the locals instinctively knowing what dance is to be performed. The dances were old-time folk and country style, often with stories attached, which I assume were sung mainly in Breton. We were amongst only a handful of tourists, with the vast majority being locals.

We grabbed a crepe and picher of local cider, sat back and people watched… for me it was the highlight of the week, but then again I love anything traditional, including our very own morris dancers.

---

Locronan – medieval village

A place where time has stood still from the Middle Ages. You can see why it was chosen by so many directors as a film set location.

---

Trezmalaquen – Celtic Sea sunset

---

Le Conquet – in old Leon

With the weather in the south looking bleak, we headed north and out of Cornouaille and into the neighbouring old province of Léon. We headed for lunch and a walk in the westernmost town in France, Le Conquet.

The town is typical of the region and looks much like many similar ports in the south west of England.

After lunch we spent an hour or so wandering along the footpaths, leading us to a lighthouse with beautiful views across sandy bays.

Well worth the trip

---

Pont-Aven

En-route to Calais we stopped off at Pont-Aven for an hour to wander around this picturesque village, made famous for artists.

---

Our return

Emma looking overjoyed 😝 on account of managing the entire trip without us putting the kayaks in the water!
🙄 NEXT TIME! 😛

---

Hints and Tips

Holiday Property Bond (HPB)

We stayed in a HPB apartment for the week, using it as a base to explore the region. This was the first of many European destinations they have invested in on behalf of their members. I’d recommend HPB hands down!