Scottish Highlands and Islands (Sept 24)
The old coast road between Arisaig and Mallaig is one of my favourite ‘go-to’ places to relax and enjoy nature at its very best.
It’s a really special place.
I found it a few years ago on the recommendation of some bikers I got chatting to on another trip. It is never far from my thoughts.
Looking out over the Inner Hebrides islands of Rùm, Eigg, Muck and Canna, where the shallow, crystal clear waters are warmed by the Gulf Stream, this place really does feel like it’s on the other side of the planet. Indeed the sand looks like it’s been imported from the Caribbean! The whole place is just teaming with wildlife too. On this trip I saw multiple species of bird, colonies of seals, a pod of dolphins, and that was without really trying.
With the forecast promising 12 hours of sunshine for multiple days on end, I grabbed the opportunity and headed northwards from my temporary base in the Lake District. However, it is completely possible to get here in a day from my home in southern England. So when the weather looks good, it’s worth seizing the moment and putting the effort in.
Wild camping on the beach, I arrived towards the end of the day and found a pitch next to a guy called David and his lovely little dog named Luna. David was doing pretty much the same as me, simply taking advantage of the great weather window and kicking back for a few days.
The pair of us quickly realised we had much in common, from our love of live music, an early retirement, to our love of destinations like this. As the day was drawing to a close we became mildly worried about the fate of a lone paddle boarder who David witnessed setting off over the horizon several hours earlier. So when we saw her enter the bay we were somewhat relieved.
Bronya, who joined us later for a sunset drink by the fire, was completely oblivious to the fact that we, and another couple further up the beach, were contemplating contacting the Coast Guard for advice – had she not returned when she did…
We cracked open a beer and chatted like we’d known each other for much longer than a few hours, and, as the temperature dropped we kept warm around the log fire. These are the best ways to end a day.
With our beach facing west, we were able to watch the sun set between the two small islands of Rum and Eigg. Next time I’m here I’d like to head over to the ‘Small Isles”, but a little more planning will be needed.
The evening sky was really as red, vibrant and warm as the image below, no photoshopping or adjustment needed.
Oh and it turns out that the chap who cuts the grass on the neighbouring golf course was also alert to the fact that the intrepid paddle boarder had been absent for most of the day. Nice to know that travellers and locals have each other’s backs.
I spent a few days simply kayaking the bays and exploring the islands and coves on my own; the conditions were perfect, hardly a breath of wind and very little swell. Below me, the darkness of the kelp forests and seagrass provided a superb contrast to the light and bright sandy bottom.
As I was alone, I didn’t venture too far, and always kept an eye on the tide and conditions.
On the second afternoon I was joined by Bronya who ended up taking me on a kayaking foray a little further than I’d been happy to do solo. We headed for a small group of islands about half a mile or so out to sea and I discovered very quickly that I am not as fearless as Bronya, and she knew it… She’d delight in occasionally mentioning the word “ORCA”, knowing that it would send me into a mild panic! My kids and Emma’s would love the fact that it was me on the receiving end of a wind-up! Little did I know at the time, but there “IS” a pair of Orcas that venture into this region and are regularly spotted five miles up the coast… Perhaps had I known that I may not have ventured out so far.
However, I was glad we’d done it, as it was on this trip we bumped into two colonies of seals. The first couple of seals were incredibly inquisitive circling between us and another passing kayak. One even surfaced a few feet from me, and appeared to be a little startled by our close proximity – as was I.
The second colony was at least ten strong and they were basking in the sun on a bed of kelp as I kayaked into a small bay. They didn’t hang around long and I felt sorry that I’d disturbed them, but I guess we were the only humans they’d seen all day, given how far out we were.
My final morning came around too soon, after a few glorious and magical days I was sad to leave.
I managed to squeeze in a final tour of the bay on my kayak and after taking a swim I headed for the silver sandy beaches of Morar and then onto Mallaig where I had a 12:50 ferry booked to Armadale on Syke.
Onward to Skye
The fishing and ferry port at Mallaig is tiny, and the vessel I was on was equally sized. I had booked the last slot available for the day, which I think was due to a cancellation.
The crossing was perfect, with the water ridiculously calm.
As we neared the end of the crossing and approached the harbour at Armadale, a small pod of dolphins was spotted following a small fishing boat heading in the opposite direction, something I didn’t expect. The buzz on board was fantastic as they swam past. It was the icing on the cake of the trip here so far. I didn’t get any decent photos of them on account of spilling my coffee over the phone as they were close. But hey-ho, the memory is in my head. It was when trying to establish the type of dolphin it was that I discovered that the Sound of Sleat has two resident Orcas! Hmmmm I was right to be nervous kayaking over the past few days!
I headed for a campsite on the south of the island, overlooking an amazing beach at the end of the loch. A dog walker from Aviemore I had got talking to a few days earlier suggested I head to Glenbrittle – it was a great tip.
After pitching my tent, I wandered along the beach and cooked a meal. Conditions were perfect for my last night in Scotland before heading back down south.
It was a short trip to Skye this time. I plan to spend longer when next here with Em.
Another night sitting on a beach, but this time with a couple of chaps from Poland who were doing a similar road trip.
Being so remote, there is absolutely no telephone signal for miles, let alone WiFi, so I ended up giving Emma a call from a phone box along the road the next morning. It is the first time I’ve used a phone box for decades!
Glen Coe National Nature reserve
The A82 road along Glen Coe has got to be one of my favourite roads of all time. There is something magical about it, especially the numerous falls, and Locahan na h-Achlaise in the right conditions.
So, sad to be leaving, but I managed to exploit some wonderful late summer sunshine in one of the most magnificent corners of these islands. I can’t wait to return and spend more time here with Emma.
It was great to meet so many kind and wonderful people on this trip too.
End
Click here or on map below for link to Google “my maps” for route and photo locations.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1TBuu3hbzCihR6o9H5KmVK5eg77jbrCI&usp=sharing
Sounds a wonderful few days Lawrence. We did a 3 week tour of Scotland a few years ago – Skye, Lewis & Harris, Aviemore, Lock Lomond. As you say it’s a very beautiful place particularly when the weather is kind to you. We must go back and explore the Inner Hebrides.
Very glad to hear you’ve retired early and are doing just what you want to do in life. I’d love to meet for a beer if you’re ever around Basingstoke.
Hi Mark, great to hear from you. I’ve dropped you a message direct with my number. I zip past Basingstoke on the M3 at least half a dozen times a month, and it’s only a short train ride home – if we grab a beer or two.