Vietnam – travelling solo (May 23)

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Da Dang and Hoi An 

My overnight sleeper train from Saigon to Da Nang pulled in at 06:23, bang on time, which wasn’t bad for an 18 hour journey. I was both fully refreshed after a great night’s sleep and happy as I was almost 1000km further north with minimal effort. 

I headed to a cafe across the street, ordered a Vietnamese coffee and booked a Grab-Bike to Ba Na Hills. Apart from the mountainous views, there was one place I wanted to see here – the Golden Hands Bridge, which is fast becoming another iconic Vietnam sight.

Sun World on the whole is not the usual place I would head for when travelling, a tad commercial, often crowded and a little gimmicky, BUT since I was way too early to check into my accommodation and was able to get there ahead of the crowds, I thought I’d give it a whirl.  I’m so glad I did. I took the first gondola of the day so the place was empty when I arrived. Two hours later – well that’s a very different matter! 

Sun World Da Nang is somewhere I’d read about, but it has to be seen to be believed. It reminded me a little of an upscale version of Portmeirion Village in Wales, combined with Disney and Hogwarts, complete with full scale replica castles and whole villages built to resemble medieval Europe…

It is seriously barking mad and the last thing I’d have expected here.  But I ended up spending longer than I thought I would together with lots of Korean and Japanese visitors, as well as locals, especially newly weds, wanting some unusual backdrops for their wedding album. 

I then took a Grab-bike to Hoi An, which in hindsight was a mistake (it was way too far to travel pillion) I should have gone for a car! But on the plus side it only cost me about £8 and I got to see a lot more of the countryside. My arse was numb for a while! 

I checked in to my hotel and started to plan the three days ahead. I decided to travel everywhere by bicycle given the flat nature of the terrain. 

I’d heard a lot about Hoi An from friends, and all of their descriptions were spot on. It’s a magical, ancient Vietnamese fishing village that has managed to keep its charm and caters for those wanting to experience the calmer side of the local culture. Oddly, given its location, it’s also a centre for tailoring; I’m not quite sure why. 

It had more Westerners than I’ve seen for a while, and is definitely on the list of places to fly and flop for some. It is located at the end of a river tributary overlooking the South China Sea and has become one of the “go-to” places for anyone travelling between Saigon and Hanoi.

The beaches are near perfect, but not the one closest to Hoi An, which has too many people on it for my liking. But you don’t have to go far to find an empty beach – especially by bicycle. On my second day I headed off on my bike towards Cua Dai lighthouse to the south, exploring the quieter beaches en route. My Cua Dai was an even smaller fishing village with one tiny cafe hidden beneath the trees that I could have sat in all day. The sea breeze here helped to cool me down in stifling mid 30 degree heat. 

Hoi An comes gently alive at night, with small boats taking visitors for a night time voyage by lantern. It’s an experience they shouldn’t forget in a hurry, but I will wait until I come back with Emma to give that a go. The restaurants and bars have a quaint feel to them, especially either side of the river in the old town; the nightlights and boats floating past with their multi coloured lanterns create a wonderful atmosphere. It has two large markets, one for the tourists, the other for the locals – you can guess which one I preferred. I took a few pictures of traders which look like I’ve used a filter… I didn’t, those greens and blues are natural! 

Whilst at the lighthouse cafe I met a guy called Fred from Pennsylvania who gave me a few suggestions of places to visit in town, so my plan was to was to find them, but I got seduced by the sea and an isolated beach bar where I ended up staying for most of the day. It was perfect for a swim in the cool calm waters.  I got talking to the owner and the bar staff, given I was the only customer all afternoon. Times are tough! I went back there the next day, luckily for them there were a few more customers.  Luckily for me, not too many…  

As the sun was setting, I cycled along the beach, back to the main drag and headed for home, but I got distracted again, ending up in the bar that Fred recommended earlier.

It turned out to be a bit of an expat place, with a swimming pool and draft beer on tap. I got talking to a chap called Morgan from Canada and some Aussies who were heading off to listen to some live music later, so that’s where I ended up standing alongside a guy called Jerry from Colorado most of the evening. Like me, he’s a sucker for live music, so we swapped stories and band names in between listening to sets from a band from Saigon.

My final day was spent cycling around and visiting new places in town before heading back (this time in a taxi) to the station in Da Nang via the famous Dragon Bridge which crosses the Hàn River. My train was leaving after midnight so I had time to watch the famous Fire and Water-breathing dragon display that takes place ONLY at weekends at 21:00 for 15 minutes.  

Thousands of people lined the river bay and crammed onto and around the bridge to witness this spectacular event. The traffic stopped and the dragon came to life shooting flames into the air and cascades of water over thousands of happy people. Only in Vietnam! 

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Dong Hoi & Phong Nha 

The next morning, and after a seven hour overnight journey, I awoke as my train approached my stop at Dong Hoi. I decided to take the number 4 bus to Phong Nha rather than a taxi, as they run every hour with route 4 going straight past my accommodation (the bus is also X10 cheaper than taxi). However like most buses, it also doubles up as a local goods delivery service during the day, so the journey took a little longer than it should have. 

My accommodation in Phong Nha was perfect, consisting of four tiny bungalows on stilts each with a balcony and windows facing the beautiful “Phong Nha Ke Bang” national park mountains. The bungalows surrounded a small outdoor pool which was needed as the temperatures were crazily high, 41 degrees during the day, 30 degrees over night. 

My accommodation also rented motorbikes and scooters for a ridiculously good price, so for three days I simply cruised the national park on two wheels for under £3 a day and had the time of my life. I say “rent” loosely, as it was simply a case of “here are the keys, and off you go!” Oh “and when going down the steep hills, the engine might flood and cut out, so just wait ten minutes and it’ll start again”! That phenomenon is not unusual with smaller bikes in terrain like this… and yes, I did manage a workaround – it was to keep the throttle on but to brake harder when going downhill. It worked – most of the time!  

It really was the best way to view the national park; empty roads, stunning scenery and a sense of freedom I don’t think I’ve ever quite felt before. I thought I’d re-set my life a few years ago given the turbulence of 2017, but I think I’ve just recalibrated my recalibration! 

Over the next three days I ended up doing a huge loop around the national park as well as heading off along roads that took me down valleys and across mountain ranges far away from my accommodation. I only made it back before sunset once. Luckily for me, the excessive heat of the day came to an abrupt end with huge thunderstorms overnight and a massive deluge of rain. 

The one thing I did book in advance was a Phong Nha kayak and trek adventure but with a difference – it was 99% underground! One of the main reasons why people come here is to explore the extensive cave network of the region, the largest in the world. Ten of us set off with our two guides on our 4.5km journey, into the heart of the mountain. The flat bottomed tourist boats turn around quite early on as the underground river and caves get too small for them. However, in our tiny kayaks we were able to continue into the darkness with our head torches lighting the way, the river and the cave network got smaller and smaller. Eventually we reached a point where the kayaking ended and the climbing began. One thing that freaked a few people out was the fact that our head torches were attracting the bugs, which in turn were attracting the bats, they came precariously close at times!  Oh, and the fact that whilst “billed” as medium risk it had some pretty steep climbs and descents where you really didn’t want to lose your footing else it would be curtains! 

We reached the end of the trek at a point where we needed to cross an underground river which is usually a LOT slower than it was today, but given the huge storms of last night it was in full flow. One by one we pulled ourselves across the torrent using a hessian rope which was bowing in the current, our bodies being dragged downstream by the force of the water. We were quickly out of our depth and holding on to the rope for dear life! One of our team decided that it wasn’t for her and sat out this final stage, the rest of us simply blocked any thought of consequences from our minds as we crossed. I did glance down into the darkness downstream and could see another rope about 30 feet away equally bowing from the force of the current. From that point the river and the cave simply disappeared into the inky blackness… where the river ends… Who knows! I held on more tightly and crossed more slowly – what could possibly go wrong!  

We reached the other side and climbed up to a ledge and were invited to join our guides in a ritual of smothering our bodies in the revitalising mineral mud (a bit like the fancy mud packs people stick on their faces). I think the plan at this point was to lay down in the soft sand in complete darkness with our head torches off for a few minutes… BUT I could see out of the corner of my eye the guide flashing his torch towards the river. I knew instinctively that he was going to tell us to move out quickly given the water levels were rising… and yes that’s exactly what he said and what was happening. The storm rain from last night was just about to hit this level! So a quick exit and back into the (even more) raging torrent and back to safety. Oh and we could hear waterfalls cascading on the return trek that we couldn’t on the way out. So yep, conditions change rapidly down here. Many of my old work colleagues back home would be having kittens at the thought of this… oh how life has changed. Emma would have absolutely refused to do this, especially the last bit, and much like the the girl who sat it out, would have felt vindicated. That said, at the very start I had quizzed the guide about his experience and he estimated he’s done this over 4000 times and so I was confident that he knew his onions. 

The three day, two wheeled road tour of the national park is something I shall also never forget. The forest was a dense as any I’d have ever seen and despite spending hours trying to spot primates in the trees and rocks, I simply couldn’t see them – even if I was able to hear them and their calls.  

My final day in Phong Nha and I headed for a river that I had seen the day before, it was  unusually “blue” in colour and contrasted vividly with the sandy coloured rivers elsewhere. It really did stand out!

So I had to go and find it…. It turned out to be generated from a huge natural spring called “MOOC spring” from which flows crystal clear emerald water. This fresh water just bubbles up. As it is within the national park, and an obvious and attractive place to swim, the government has sought to control visitor numbers and make sure not too many come a cropper in the fast flowing current and rapids.. life guards everywhere! 

I spent a pleasant few hours there in the afternoon swimming, relaxing and jumping into the cool water before heading back to return my bike, grab a bite to eat and contemplate the next stage of my journey, another overnight sleeper train followed by bus to Ha Long Bay.

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Ha Long Bay

I had booked a bit of luxury for this part of the journey – a nice all inclusive cruise for three days around the bay with trips and experiences thrown in. Whilst the weather wasn’t all blue skies and sunshine every day, the scenery was spectacular. 

My ship was leaving from Tian Chau Island so, just to be on the safe side, I booked accommodation the night before. It was perfect, probably the best quality place I’ve stayed in so far. Spotlessly clean and with owners who could not have been more attentive. 

I spent three days exploring the islands, kayaking, swimming, cycling and walking. I ate more than I thought I would and swam in deeper waters than I would usually do (no predator sharks here).

I tried Snake Wine for the first time, and bought some “happy water ” (home made spirit) from a local trader at Cat Ba island in order to share with my Sapa homestay host on the next leg of my journey (I’d heard from another traveller to expect the host to join you and share theirs).

The only downside of this part of my trip was the people on board the cruise ship. I don’t think I managed one decent or meaningful conversation with anyone whilst here – they were just not my cup of tea. It was also a little too “organised” which felt like I was on a photo op conveyor belt. This was the only aspect of my trip that I would do differently. I don’t think cruises are for me! But on the flip side, I’m glad i did it – and got some great relaxation ahead of the next phase. 

Oh and because the onboard drink prices were so high some local traders whizz about from ship to ship selling beer for a decent price, which they negotiate with you before passing it up in a fishing net in exchange for cash.

I ended my experience here with a day in Hong Hai simply wandering through the backstreets, finding markets and places to relax.

Vietnam were playing Indonesia in the regional football championships (equivalent to Euros) so I found a quiet cafe to watch the game and enjoyed it with some locals. I was the only non-Vietnamese in the place so was a bit of a novelty! Oh and I’ve heard about local draft beer, I had about 6 or 7 large glasses of beer for 40,000 Dong, which is about £1.36…  no tourist prices here! 

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Sapa mountains. Lao Cai (North Vietnam not far from the Chinese border) 

I slept like the dead on the overnight coach from Ha Long to Sapa, so much so that the driver had to come and wake me up on arrival. I reckon I’d managed almost eight hours sleep so was bright and breezy and ready for a new day! That said it was only 4am and I had to kill a few hours before I could meet my mountain guide for the next three days… and what an absolutely amazing few days it turned out to be. 

The mountains, waterfalls, rice fields and people of this region are just something else – totally amazing. It is everything that I had hoped it would be – and more. Mind you I think I may have lucked out with the time of year (and weather) given it’s the start of summer and the wet season so there is a lot of activity taking place on the farms and rice fields. I also booked a three day mountain trek with an experienced guide who took time off from her day job (rice planting) to nursemaid me across mountains and valleys of Sapa. I had booked to both eat and stay in some pretty remote locations in the hills, and paid extra for an “off the beaten track” trekking experience… and yep – I can confirm that I certainly got that. 

After three days trekking my legs are buzzing. 

My guide, Khu is a 28 year old mother of two who, when she’s not working for her family and farm, is employed as a guide for Sapa Sisters, a local cooperative which has managed to cut out the middle men and take bookings direct. This ensures that precious external money gets channeled direct to the locals without being lost to the commission earning middlemen. By locals, I am speaking of the ethnically different mountain tribes that have settled in this region.  

Each ethnic group has a very different culture, language and religion.  Khu is part of the “Black Mong” who in turn are part of the broader Hmong tribe that is believed to have moved to this region from China many hundreds of years ago.  Khu can’t read or write but can speak three languages fluently and was the perfect guide for an aging hippie with the exact amount of drive to push me on the more difficult treks but recognising that at the age of 57 I have my limits! 

It was a magical experience in an awesome landscape. On my second day I even got roped into “helping” to plant rice for the family that my guide had asked to cook me a lunch time meal. It was something I didn’t expect to do but thoroughly enjoyed. A few days earlier (or later) I’d have missed the opportunity – so perfect timing.  This time of year, when the conditions are just right for planting, family and friends come together in a hive of activity in order to make the work easier and quicker.

The family that fed me are part of the same tribe as Khu and live miles from anywhere up in the mountains. No roads to speak of in this region just paths wide enough for a motorbike or scooter. I leaned a lot over the three days about their culture and rice growing! Baby rice plants are initially planted in high density in a small number of plots until they have grown big enough to be removed, separated and replanted by hand into the numerous plots of rice fields that have been prepared for just this moment.

As the rice plants grow into much larger specimens, they need to be replanted about 12 inches apart, and depending on the type of rice, they are either planted individually or in small groups of four/five. It’s monotonous and back breaking stuff – and many of the women carry their young children on their backs all day long. The rice fields are prepared ahead of planting either using buffalo or machines. I am assured the buffalo do a better job! 

Now this place is a “proper” subsistence farm, only producing enough food for family and neighbours. Livestock roam freely around the farmstead (until the day they end up on a plate); it’s all pretty basic stuff and probably hasn’t changed in centuries.  

I had a fantastic lunch prepared by the elder women, which was basic, simple but full of flavour and scrumptious! In fact it was one of the tastiest meals I’ve had to date.  

The first day of trekking was an absolute deluge, torrential rain generating instant streams! The last two days were sunny, but sticky and humid – getting hotter – it’s these high temperatures and huge downpours that are ideal for rice and have signalled the start of the planting season. 

It’s also great for waterfalls – we found one on the final day lower down the valley and it was empty when we got there. I just had to go in for a dip.  

As usual I met some lovely people on this part of the trip Including two girls from Belgium travelling together, and couples from Italy and Spain, and another couple from Germany/Netherlands. Over a few beers and glasses of happy water, we shared stories of places we’d been or thoughts about the places we were heading, swapping ideas and recommendations to help either with this trip or the next venture to Vietnam. It’s so lovely when people with the same passion for travel get together, there’s already a genuine connection and desire to make each other’s journey as good as it can possibly be. 

I had “options” for my final few days in Vietnam ; I had to decide quickly if I should stay an extra day in Sapa, return to Ha Long bay in order to take advantage of the improved weather, or simply head for Hanoi and explore this huge city of the north. Although my heart wanted to stick around Sapa, my legs were screaming “no more” – so I ruled that out as an option… I headed for the station in Loa Cai where I bought an overnight ticket southward towards Hanoi . Whilst on the transfer bus from Sapa and waiting for the train, I got talking to a 25 year old traveller called Jessie from the UK; we were thrown together for four hours, and so kept each other company for this short period of time. She promised to keep me updated on the outcome of a holiday romance she stumbled into a few weeks ago. Ahhh to be young again! Of course the poor girl got to hear all about Emma and how much I’m missing her ❤️.

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Hanoi

Well – after a good sleep on the train I woke in Hanoi deciding to stick around for the day and explore the city a little, as opposed to booking a bus elsewhere. 

A fellow traveller (one of the Belgiums) had urged me to spend a bit of time in Hanoi given it’s her favourite all time city! So that tipped the balance. 

Wow. Just wow.  Thank you for the tip! 

Her first piece of advice was to head for Hoan Kiem to simply wander about the old quarter – so I did. There is a lake nearby so I headed for that.

Between 5am and 6am (sunrise) the place comes to life with every inch of public space crammed full of locals participating in the morning rituals and exercises. Now I’m not talking about hundreds, I’m talking people in their thousands, and of all ages, all meeting up for their preferred method of cardio or relaxation. Tai chi, ballroom and modern dancing, badminton, meditation, circuit training, just about everything you can think of was taking place before people head off to work and the temperature gets too high. It is all magically spontaneous and organic.

As soon as the heat starts to hit, the participants disperse and head off to work! Most westerners were still in their beds so miss out on this local tradition.  

I then took a few grab bikes to corners of the city that I thought might be interesting – the Belgium lady had given me a list of “must sees”!

I also booked into a hostel dorm for the night (£5) with no intention of using it, but simply to have somewhere to dump my rucksack and take a shower later before heading off the the airport where I have already paid for a sleeping pod at T2 to ensure I have no stress the morning of my return flight on Thursday.  

Hanoi certainly lived up to its expectation and my Belgium friend will be pleased that I didn’t skip the sights of this pretty amazing city.  I spent the entire day simply walking between places or taking a grab bike if the distance was too far. 

One of the things I had to try out here was the “egg coffee”. Which dates back to the post colonial era and is a specialty of Hanoi. Delicious!

And of course I couldn’t leave Hanoi without visiting Train Street. I’d travelled along it earlier and couldn’t believe just how close the buildings are to the track and train.

There are so many other places in Vietnam that people have recommended, and a few things I haven’t done deliberately so I can share the experience with Emma when she joins me next time. 

We’ve spoken most days by WhatsApp usually in the late afternoon here (local) when Emma is waking up (it’s a six hour time difference). The 4G signal has been much better than I expected so even in some pretty remote places we’ve managed to keep in touch. 

Can’t wait to return.

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